Has Sabato De Sarno Finally Found Where He Belongs?

As Alessandro Michele’s successor, Sabato De Sarno’s “boring” aesthetic may have been something of an original sin. But that does not mean he cannot be a good creative director — as long as he finds the right place.

On Sept. 7, Chinese fashion brand Icicle named Sabato De Sarno its creative director. He will oversee the overall creative direction of the brand’s men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories and eyewear collections, with his first collection set to debut for Fall/Winter 2027-2028.

The seemingly unlikely pairing immediately sparked discussion on Chinese social media. “Such a perfect match: an unfashionable brand and a creative director with no creativity,” one user commented. The comment had received more than 600 likes as of publication.

Jokes and sarcasm aside, the comment, in a way, captures the logic behind the appointment.

When Sabato took over Gucci, his task was to move the house away from Michele’s ornate, eccentric and theatrical aesthetic and give a brand at risk of creative fatigue a new look. But he appeared to swing too far in the opposite direction. Gucci became too restrained and conservative, losing some of its distinctiveness. The approach may have been intended to make the clothes easier to sell, but the sales figures ultimately showed that a cleaner, more wearable Gucci was not enough to turn the business around.

Icicle, however, is a different proposition. Founded in 1997 and backed by Kering earlier this year, the quiet-luxury brand has never relied on novelty or visual spectacle. High-quality natural fabrics, an understated aesthetic and a modern interpretation of Eastern philosophy have long shaped its identity.

The restrained aesthetic that proved so controversial at Gucci could play very differently at a brand that has never tried to be loud.

Faced with criticism, Sabato once said, “I don’t care about the Instagram moment.” Rather than creating visual spectacles or cultural events, he is more comfortable — and more interested — in designing individual pieces, exploring fabrics and working through details.

Before joining Gucci, he spent 13 years at Valentino, eventually becoming fashion director of men’s and women’s collections. Coupled with his earlier experience at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana, those 13 years gave him a solid understanding of how to develop products for established luxury brands.

While some social media users joked that he had turned Gucci into Zara, others noted that the Gucci pieces he designed were, in fact, well made and refined.

This time, Sabato no longer needs to prove just how creative he can be.

Sabato was not the man who saved Gucci, but neither was he the man who ruined it. The house’s difficulties were already visible before his arrival, and its decline cannot be blamed entirely on creative direction. After a difficult exit from Gucci, he may also need a brand that suits him better — one that gives people a clearer view of what he can actually do.

For Icicle, the deal also makes considerable sense. The brand clearly does not intend to remain simply a high-end Chinese fashion label; it wants a place in the global fashion conversation. The name recognition that comes with a former Gucci creative director, combined with Sabato’s extensive experience in the European luxury industry, gives Icicle a credible starting point.

For both sides, this is a chance to reset how they are valued.