What Imagination, Capabilities, Principles, and Ambitions Does Hermès Embody in Its Watches?

The Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 is a silent but intense battlefield. 60 watch brands, fully prepared, compete over 7 days, launching new collections, offering distinctive experiences, and sharing expertise. Their goal: to captivate the media, dealers, collectors, and the public with their prowess, win the battle for attention, and lay a strong foundation for the year ahead.

 

It marks the third year of the post-pandemic adjustment in the global high-end watch industry, the first year of Trump's 2.0 era in the U.S., and the second year of ongoing sluggishness in China's consumer market. With no clear answers to future trends or the turning point, the only course of action is to give best effort and once again push through the cycle.

 

In response, each watchmaker unveils its most impressive feats and finest creations, boasting innovations like "the lightest professional dive watch ever", "the most complicated watch ever", and "the thinnest tourbillon ever". These pieces command genuine admiration for the engineers' visionary interpretation of the "beauty of mechanics" and the remarkable limits of human craftsmanship. However, amidst all the striking designs, only a handful evoke smile of recognition and leave an enduring impression, with two such pieces being from Hermès.

 

Humor, regarded as the pinnacle of intellect, when integrated into the precision of a mechanical timepiece, reveals a creator with a vision and capability that sets them apart in the world of watchmaking.

 

What makes Hermès watches so unique?

 

Hermès' booth is predominantly enclosed by walls, offering only a small window display and two understated entrances. There's a saying in the Chinese internet community: "The fewer the words, the greater the message." This concept fits Hermès' booth perfectly. The more it conceals, the more curiosity it generates, compelling people to step inside and discover what's hidden.

 

 

True to form, Hermès effortlessly channels its unique identity to captivate a diverse audience.

 

The space inside the booth is compact, with gentle lighting and subtle music, designed by artist Sarah-Anaïs Desbenoit. Each piece is displayed on its own bespoke platform, drawing visitors' attention to the works themselves in this tranquil environment.

 

 

Among the creations presented by Hermès, the highlight is the new "Le temps suspendu" collection. Initially introduced in 2011, the collection has been refreshed this year. As the name suggests, a button press causes the watch's hands to instantly return to the position near 12 o'clock, and another press brings them back to the present time. Meanwhile, the movement beneath the semi-transparent dial continues running during the pause. Hermès challenges traditional ways of measuring, regulating, or controlling time, opting instead to explore an alternative possibility—crafting a time dimension that stirs emotions, ignites imagination, and offers respite. This unique time philosophy tells stories and evokes feelings, a far cry from the typical emphasis on mechanical performance in the watchmaking world.

 

 

"Le temps suspendu" is Hermès' kindly-crafted "illusion" through horological artistry, an experience of time that is both tender and thought-provoking. Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Artistic Director of Hermès, once shared: "I always encourage people to reflect on time, to think about our personal connection with it. When faced with the sadness brought on by time's fleeting nature, you can also discover the cure for these emotions, which is a gift of life."

 

In contrast to the deeper meaning behind " Le temps suspendu ", Arceau Rocabar de rire featuring a playful depiction of a mischievous horse, delivers a "cute" impact. Press the button, and the horse sticks out its rosy tongue, evoking the feeling of a child within us who hasn't quite grown up, winking at a future many years away.

 

 

While inducing a smile, both the Arceau Rocabar de rire and Le temps suspendu prompt reflection on a question: Must a complicated timepiece be defined by intricate features that are immediately apparent, or by functions that challenge the mind, like a mental puzzle? This line of inquiry opens the door to deeper reflections: why does Hermès' complicated timepiece stand out so distinctly? How will this originality help it compete and attract devoted followers?

 

With these questions in mind, ConCall sat down with Laurent Dordet, CEO of Hermès Horloger, for an interview.

 

 

"The story begins with its creation. In 1978, when Jean-Louis Dumas made the decision to establish the watchmaking division, he set two key principles: First, we must base ourselves in Switzerland, the home of the finest craftsmanship, ensuring we achieve the highest standards in both technical excellence and functionality. Second, we would start with basic timepieces, but they had to be unmistakably unique. Whether it was the design, the imagination behind it, or the way we narrate a story, everything had to stand out. This is what Hermès has always strived for, and it is the only way for the house to truly matter."

 

Reflecting on Le temps suspendu, Laurent Dordet explained, "Time should not be confined. We should dedicate time to the people we love and savor the present moment. This is our philosophy and our attitude toward time." Regarding the "mischievous horse", Laurent Dordet viewed it as the perfect embodiment of Hermès' creativity, imagination, emotional depth, and humor. "Hermès has always approached its creations with meticulous craftsmanship while striving to bring joy to others."

 

The philosophy embedded in Le temps suspendu reveals a truth: For Hermès, the concept of a complicated timepiece involves not only the essential technical mastery and craftsmanship that embody mechanical logic and prowess, but also the significance of thought and emotion it carries. Hermès conveys its interpretation of "complication" in a manner that appears light but is rich in depth, a unique characteristic that defines Hermès watches.

 

This it must be noted, also refrains from conforming to and even challenges the conventional aesthetic standards and preconceived notions surrounding complication.

 

For years, the global high-end watch industry has been rooted in the language of German and Swiss heritage watchmakers (whom Laurent Dordet refers to as "pure players"), shaping collectors and consumers to expect either expensive or advanced materials, extremely complex designs, meticulous details, and precision that stand up to microscopic scrutiny.

 

However, Hermès watches have never leaned on these elements as their "narrative angle", even though they have the expertise to explore them, instead choosing to maintain their own path.

 

"As far as technology is concerned, we have the expertise (Hermès established its own watchmaking factory in Switzerland), and in terms of style, no one compares because we are Hermès, from France, with the style and finesse of Paris," said Laurent Dordet.

 

Guided by this "relentless independent spirit", Hermès watches have long been underestimated, yet this very circumstance has allowed them to carve out an immense space to captivate consumers and dominate the market.

 

Hermès' "time vision"

 

At present, Hermès ranks 13th among the Top 20 brands by global watch revenue and stands as the sole brand on the list offering a comprehensive range of products. Between 2020 and 2024, Hermès' watch sales surged fourfold.

 

Undoubtedly, after more than four decades of low-key growth, Hermès watch business has seen an impressive surge over the past four years, demonstrating its accumulated strength.

 

Yet, as with every coin, there is always another side. Since the latter half of 2023, the hard luxury industry overall exhibited a shift, with jewelry performing strongly while watches lagged behind. Hermès watch business was not immune to the trend. This was evident in its Q4 and full-year financial report for 2024, released in February, showing a 4.2% decline in annual revenue to €580 million. However, it's noteworthy that the division achieved a 2.6% growth in Q4, reaching €140 million. This demonstrates that Hermès watches continue to perform exceptionally during peak seasons.

 

This somewhat fluctuating performance clearly reveals that Hermès watch business is resolutely confronting the consumer downturn, relying on its own strength.

 

Having served as CEO of Hermès Horloger for ten years, Laurent Dordet has witnessed firsthand the changing market dynamics and developed a composed yet determined approach to these shifts. In his view, since the end of the COVID-19 pandemic, the global luxury market has diversified, with rising demand across the board. In the high-end watch industry, while many brands are active, only a few succeed. On the consumer front, with a more cautious mindset emerging, spending tends to gravitate toward the most reliable and established brands, such as Rolex and Patek Philippe. Meanwhile, brands offering distinctive imagination and innovation not only capture the attention of seasoned collectors but also draw in younger and less experienced consumers. This grants them both current success and vast potential for growth. Hermès aspires to be part of these innovative brands.

 

In pursuit of this objective, Laurent Dordet and Hermès have opted to be "a true companion to time": "Success requires the refinement and testing of time. We cannot take pride in small accomplishments; we must remain humble and grounded as we move forward."

 

Since 47 years , its unwavering commitment to its founding vision is largely due to its status as a family-owned business. This allows the house to maintain a sense of conviction, unshaken by the demands of the capital markets, ensuring that everyone within shares the same vision: to craft exceptional timepieces with the best materials, uphold the highest standards of quality, and provide enduring answers through the passage of time.

 

Today, Hermès watch division has grown into a diverse matrix, designed to appeal to consumers across various segments. For Hermès, its complicated timepieces serve as the ultimate demonstration of the heights its watchmaking capabilities can reach, while the beloved collections expand the reach of the house’s horological universe.

 

"Fifteen years ago, most of the watches we introduced were powered by quartz movements—durable, beautiful, and most importantly, accessible to all. We acquired of 25% stakes in Manufacture Fleurier in 2006 and integrated dial and case manufacturers after.——Enabling us to produce complicated movements. This elevated our reputation and prestige, which in turn enhanced the value of our other timepieces. So, whether or not you're drawn to complicated timepieces, you can step into our world by embracing the 'Hermès style' through the Cape Cod or Heure H.

 

 

 

Laurent Dordet show the ambition behind the Hermès watch business

 

Laurent Dordet believes this ambition is firmly grounded in the Chinese market. The reach of Hermès watch business has been extended to consumers through the direct engagement of store assistants. "There is no magic solution. What we can do is invest time and patience with every customer to win them over. Fortunately, our staff is outstanding, especially in our Chinese stores."

 

During the annual watch fair, Laurent Dordet personally attends and takes on the role of a "store assistant". He shared with ConCall a conversation he had with a visitor: "This morning, someone asked me, 'What makes you happiest?' I replied, 'Sitting down with a watch enthusiast, spending an hour telling him about the history of Le temps suspendu, the Hermès H08 collection, and the Hermès Cut collection, and then hearing him say, 'I had no idea Hermès watches were this impressive; I'm truly amazed, and though I've never bought a Hermès watch before, I'm now considering it.' That is when I'm happiest."

 

 

Through Laurent Dordet's recount, ConCall senses a passion for the watch business, a pride in Hermès' expertise, a measured, rational perspective on current growth, and a drive for future success. The leader's state of mind directly reflects the direction of the business he steers. Therefore, it's easy to predict that Hermès watch business will persist with a seemingly serene yet determined and progressive style. Over the next few years, Hermès will undoubtedly introduce innovative and diverse creations to assert its true strength to the industry, while remaining steadfast to its core values of living aesthetics, long-term vision, and an unparalleled stance.